If you’ve made the decision to get serious about fly fishing, you’re probably wondering, “What gear do I need to get started?”
Well, look no further, because in this post we’re going to cover the essential fly fishing gear for beginners. Though, notice the word essential. I didn’t say, “everything you’ll ever need for fly fishing”. That’ll be up to you and, fair warning, if you truly get into fly fishing, you may never have enough.
Heck, whether my birthday, Father’s Day, Christmas, Arbor Day, National Doughnut Day, or what have you, I’ve gone so far as to tell my family and friends never to buy me anything outside of a gift card to my favorite fly shop. I’m probably in my tenth year of doing so and don’t plan to stop any time soon.
That said, let’s get one thing straight: fly-fishing doesn’t have to be a rich man’s sport. In this post, it’s my goal to get you on your way without busting your budget.
You do not need the latest, most advanced equipment to become a good fly fisher. Once you have the basics in place, focus on getting better at the craft with the equipment you have.
Better equipment does not equal better fisherman. Better fisherman equals better fisherman, period. Some of the best fly fishermen I know could catch fish on a fly with a willow branch and some kite string.
So, with all that in mind, let’s get started.
1. A Fly Rod
Drumroll please… the first thing you need is a fly rod. And, yes, it’s called a rod, not a pole. If you’re going to truly learn the lingo, start here. Say it with me…”rod.” Call it a pole and your more experienced friends will immediately peg you as a total loser and disinvite you from their upcoming trip for fear that one of them might get stuck babysitting you while you flounder around with your “pole.” It’s that important. I am not kidding. From this day forward, you, as a fly fisher wannabe will officially disavow yourself of ever using the term “pole” when referring to the sacred wand of the fly fisherman.
Anyway, we recommend a good 9 foot, 5-weight rod to get you started.
I’ll spare you a long-winded explanation for why fly rods are made in different lengths and “line-weights.” All you really need to know is that they are manufactured in different lengths and weights for different kinds of fly fishing and conditions.
Now, as you might suspect, of all the fly fishing gear you can purchase, this is definitely the most important. That said, there’s no need to break the bank on a new fly rod. In fact, to make things easy on you, we recommend purchasing a 9-foot 5-weight Orvis Clearwater Rod/Reel Combo. This setup will run you approximately $350, but it is well worth the price.
On the other hand, if you want to buy your fly rod and reel separately, you can also purchase the Orvis Clearwater on its own.
Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links, meaning we will receive a small commission (at no cost to you) if you click through and make a purchase.2. A Fly Fishing Reel
Next, you’ll need a reel.
The reel attaches to the butt end of your rod and, as you certainly already know, serves the function of containing, distributing and retrieving your line.
It serves other functions as well, including: balancing out the rod for proper casting, smashing spiders that crawl up your waders when you’re not looking, breaking your fall when you loose your footing climbing over a log, and more. You’ll see.
A good reliable reel will soon become like a trusted old friend and, if you have it long enough, an heirloom you can give to your son or daughter…just be sure to change out the line every so often.
Additionally, we recommend getting a large arbor reel for quick line retrieve. You’ll thank me for this tip later.
If you chose to purchase the Orvis Clearwater Rod/Reel Combo, then there’s no need to worry about buying another reel. However, if you’re looking for a different option, we recommend the Ross Animas Fly Reel. At the time of writing this, it will run you about $295, but seriously, if you take good care of it, this reel will last a lifetime.
3. Fly Line
Stating the obvious, the next thing you’ll need is fly line.
For lack of a better description — and doing my best to keep it simple — fly line is the colored stringlike stuff that winds up on your reel and serves as one key element between you and, at the end of all of it, a hooked fish!
Your fly line, rod, and reel should all be of the same weight. Some reels come in hybrid forms in that they will accommodate, for instance, both 5 and 6-weight line types but, ideally, a 5-weight fly rod, should be equipped with a reel designed for a 5-weight rod and the line wound up on that reel should be, yep, 5-weight line, and so on. (Fly-fishing geeks and trolls, please keep your technical line-weight comments to yourself. this post is for beginners. Remember?).
At some point in time, you might find it interesting (maybe a little too interesting) that this colored fishing line comes in all kinds of different colors, lengths and configurations for different fishing situations, locations, species and conditions, but, for now, go with “weight-forward” 5-weight line.
Warning: line is one of those things that tends to carry a higher price tag than you think it ought to. It’s colored string, for Pete’s sake! Or so you’ll think.
For now, keep it simple and inexpensive but, for a variety of reasons, I do recommend buying it new. Old, dirty, crackly line will not help you catch fish. Color will. I like bright yellow or kelly green while some of my buddies prefer more earthy tones.
You need to be able to see it easily in the water and, contrary to many an armchair expert, line color doesn’t really have a great deal to do with spooking fish. Normally, what spooks fish is lazy, noisy, armchair experts with a propensity to slosh through and thrash the water as they approach and/or work a hole.
Note: The three essential items listed above can often be bought together in a complete “setup.” Many fly-shops and sporting goods stores sell complete setups to help beginners get started less expensively. Don’t be ashamed to go this route. A setup is a great way to go. A good setup may last you several years and, because you learned to fly fish with it, will undoubtedly hold a special place in your future multi-rod arsenal.
By the way, we prefer, and almost always recommend that you make fly fishing gear purchases at your local fly shops. There are a lot of good sporting goods stores out there, and many of them have fly fishing sections, however, we’ve too often found them to be inadequately stocked and poorly attended. For some reason, the fly fishing sections of major sporting goods stores are the neglected Cinderella among the more favored fishing-family step sisters: spin casters and bait slingers.
Related Content:
- What Is The Best All-Around Fly Rod Weight?
- 9 Killer Nymphing Tips For Beginners
- Winter Fly Fishing Gear: 17 Items To Conquer The Cold
- Can You Fly Fish Anywhere?
- Head Cement vs. Super Glue: What’s The Difference?
4. Fly Fishing Leader and Tippet
Nearly completing the human-to-hooked fish connection is the next two items on your essential gear list: leader (we recommend Rio Powerflex Leader) and tippet (we recommend Rio Fluoroflex Tippet).
We combine them here because they are so closely related. Attached to the end of your fly line, you’ll attach a leader. To the end of your leader, you’ll attach a section of tippet.
When I was young, we didn’t use tippet. Heck, that was so long ago, I can’t even remember if they even made tippet! I sure don’t remember seeing it in any of the stores. My dad would tie a section of leader on to the end of our line and, to the end of our leader, a single imitation fly, and off we’d go. My brother and I caught a lot of dang fish with that setup.
But I digress…
Leader is a section of (usually) clear “monofilament” that is knotted to the end of your line. In simpler terms: leader is a section of thin, clear, (usually) nylon-based string that, ostensibly, fish can’t readily see.
As with just about everything in the fly fishing world, leader comes in different lengths and forms and may be made from different materials.
Incidentally, one of the things fly fisherman come to love is the seemingly endless amount of things to learn. It can be maddening and humbling but is always fascinating, captivating and downright addicting!
Back to it…
Generally speaking, leader comes in “level” or “tapered” configurations. Level leader is the same diameter from one end to the next, whereas tapered leader is thicker on the line end and extruded to a thinner diameter at the business end (the end closest to the fish). The most common lengths are between 7’ and 9’ and, if there wasn’t enough to remember already, come in different tests (strengths) that are typically referred to by an X factor. Strangely enough, the higher the X number, the thinner and more delicate the test. Weird? Yes. Counterintuitive? Yes, but, for now, don’t question it, just accept it. Thus, a 6X leader is not as strong as a 3X leader. Get it? (Keep this in mind. It’s the same thing for tippet).
To the end of your leader, you’ll learn to attach a section or more of tippet. Tippet is also a section of monofilament that comes in spools of, again, different lengths and tests.
Why use tippet?
At the simplest level, fly fishermen use tippet to, extend the life of their leader, help present flies in a more natural manner, and add more flies to a rig.
Sidebar: a “rig” is the term fly-fishermen use to describe the setup of line, leader, tippet and fly (and, usually, weighting and strike indication) that extends from the end of their line to the last fly at the end of it all.
I know, it sounds complicated, but stay with me, there’s great news coming! Generally speaking, when it comes to tippet, keep the two terms “extending” and “tapering” in mind.
The basic idea is to extend a 5X leader with either a 5X or 6X section of tippet to taper the rig to a better presentation of the fly at the end. Tippet sections usually fall between about 10” and 12” (situation and condition determinant) and attach to the end of your leader. Just above the connection point, where a specific type of knot forms a natural block, is usually where fly fishermen add weight so that the weight doesn’t slip down toward the fly during the casting process. Make sense?
Posts You Might Also Like:
- Do You Need Tippet For Fly Fishing?
- How Long Does Tippet Last? (Plus 5 Tips To Make It Last Longer)
- 9 Expert Tips To Avoid Fly Fishing Tangles
5. Weights
You’re going to need weights.
Most anyone who knows anything about fishing understands the concepts of weighting. Depending upon what kind of fly fishing you’re doing, you may need weights to get your fly down to where the fish are feeding. This is known as depth control and is a huge contributor to fly fishing success.
(Note: tune in to future posts to learn about the many different and fascinating types of fly fishing.)
Yes, of course, weights come in different forms, weights, sizes and colors for different conditions and situations. However, our absolute favorite weights are Water Gremlins. They look like little Pac Men and have a pair of butterfly flanges opposite the “mouth” so that they can be added and removed easily.
Get yourself a pack of Bs and a pack of BBs and you’ll be pretty well set for most conditions you’ll face as a beginner.
6. Strike Indicators
Dang, you’re thinking, he said something about strike indication! There’s more? Yep, there’s more. We at Fly Fishing Fix want you to have success catching fish! Believe me, good fly fishermen can spot someone who is not going to catch more than a random “lucky” a mile away. What’s weird is, most of us would rather see them doing well and usually want to give them instruction so that they will.
That said, a big part of depth control is how your rig is set up for good strike indication. Many fly fishing conditions require getting your fly down to where the fish are feeding. Fish are, comparatively less often, feeding on the surface, so, assuming your fly is getting to them at lower depths, you’ll need a way to see and know that they’ve taken your fly. Seems logical, right? A good selection of strike indicators is essential to have on hand. Strike indicators come in an amazingly diverse variety of shapes, sizes, colors and materials but, generally speaking, attach to your leader and help with depth control, fly presentation and, above all, letting you know when a fish has eaten your fly!
Oh, remember how you deleted the term pole from your vernacular? Next up, do not, I repeat, do not refer to your strike indicator as a bobber! It’s not a red and white bobber hovering over your power bait while you crack your next Hamms or fall asleep in the lawn chair you’ve unfolded at the side of the local pond.
Nothing against that kind of fishing, but fly fishing is different. It’s active. It’s cerebral. It’s engaging. It’s not easy, but, once you get the hang of it, it’s far more soul-satisfying than any other kind of fishing.
OK, rant over. Sorry.
If you’re looking for a good strike indicator, here at Fly Fishing Fix, we recommend the Thingamabobber. They are inexpensive, float extremely well, and cut through the wind when you cast.
7. Fly Fishing Flies
Now that you have rod, reel, line, leader, tippet, weights, strike indicators and a burning desire to actually go fly fishing, your next need is, of course, flies.
I debated about where I should slot flies in the order of gear essential to fly fishing. And while many may question placing flies ahead of vest (or vest-like substitutes), waders, boots and a body of water to fish, if you have all of the above and a selection of flies, you only need a body of water to fish.
Waders and boots are nice to have but, if it’s warm outside, and the water isn’t too chilly, fly fishing in shorts, a tee shirt, and a decent pair of hiking sandals can be the ultimate fly fishing experience — kind of a you v. nature, Bear Grills, sort of thing.
Anyway, all the links in the chain are worthless if, at the end of it all, you don’t have a good imitation fly to present to a hungry fish.
From mayflies to grasshoppers, to other fish and a whole smorgasbord of aquatic crustaceans, the topic is as big as your fly selection will ultimately be, and beyond. Suffice to say, depending upon where you intend to fly fish and time of year, there is always a core group of about five to ten different flies (fly patterns) that will usually work in said area. Best to study up a bit ahead of time.
A great resource is a good fly shop, especially one in the vicinity of your target river or lake. Flies can range in price from $1.50 to — in some cases — up to $5 or more. Just be careful, it’s very easy to spend more than you intended.
Also, if you’ve researched and know the general core group of flies you’ll need, buying them online ahead of your trip can save you some dough and time.
If you want to know which fly patterns to purchase, here are a few other posts for you to check out:
- 25 Best Dry Flies For Colorado Fly Fishing
- 12 Killer Foam Flies You Need To Try
- 10 Best Midge Patterns For Trout
- 15 Best Flies For Cheesman Canyon
- Fly Fishing With Small Flies (The Complete Guide)
- 21 Best Flies For The Bighorn River
- 10 Baetis Nymph Patterns You Need To Try
8. A Good Fly Box
Flies need a place to live when not in use. A fly box is where that happens.
As is a common theme, fly boxes come in a variety of shapes, sizes, colors and configurations. For the beginner, I’m of the mind that you don’t need a big fly box but you should keep a few things in mind.
A fly box should easily fit in your vest or wading pack pockets for easy retrieval. It should also be as water resistant as possible. No fly box will keep your flies dry if, as you will do at some point in time, you drop it, opened, in the water swirling around your feet. However, it’s nice to have a water-resistant fly box to keep your flies dry if it’s raining, you’re wading in deeper water, or when you take a wet tumble. In a fly box, wet fly hooks can rust and weaken over time.
So, invest a few extra bucks to get water-resistant fly box. You’ll be thankful you did.
If you’re looking for a great fly box, we recommend the Umpqua HD Fly Box. It’s waterproof (as long as it’s closed), and it holds plenty of flies. It’s just a great all-around fly box.
9. A Fly Fishing Vest
As I mentioned, a body of water to fly fish in is certainly one of the essentials but, since that’s kind of obvious, I decided to keep this post focused on equipment. A fishing vest comes next and, unless you want to look like your eighty year-old grandfather, try not to wear it around the house on weekends or when you walk to the mailbox.
The fly fishing industry has come a long way with the fishing vest concept, offering up a variety of undoubtedly more-efficient options for carrying your stuff. But the stubborn, habitual snob in me keeps my feet firmly planted in the traditional vest’s court.
My wife gave me my vest a long time ago and, in addition to the associated sentimental value, mine has earned ‘old buddy’ status. Not only does it look like a Christmas tree — adorned with all manner of collected gadgetry I’ve acquired over the years — it sports the stains, rips, bulges, and character of something that’s been through all of it with me. Let alone that I remember exactly where everything I need can be found exactly when I need it (a very welcome attribute at my age) but when I put it on, it sags over my shoulders with a weight that reminds me of great times in the past and, at the same time, what’s ahead!
At the very least, a fishing vest holds spare leader, tippet spools, weights, flies and fly boxes but will also become your NORAD of go-to items as you add to your gadget collection.
Of all the fly fishing vests out there, for beginners, we highly recommend the Fishpond Flint Hills Vest. It costs less than $100, has plenty of pockets, and, like all Fishpond gear, it is high-quality. Oh, and if you’re going to purchase a vest, we also recommend outfitting it with a few essential accessories:
- Nippers (the #1 most important fly fishing accessory/tool ever)
- Forceps (this is an absolute essential in fly fishing)
- Retractors/Zingers (you can never have too many of these)
- Floatant (to keep your dry flies floating)
10. Waders
Technically, you really don’t need waders. But you’ll want waders.
That is to say, many situations don’t require you to wear waders and, on a warm summer day in a shallower body of water, you may choose to “wet wade” with a good pair of hiking sandals or wet wading shoes, a pair of fast-dry shorts and a tee shirt.
Heck, I’m certain that, but for the obvious and cringe-worthy danger a barbed hook flying through the air tethered to a fast-moving, sometimes unpredictable line presents, there are those who would fly fish buck naked if they could. But if, as this article assumes, you want to go deep into the sport, you’ll want to invest in a decent pair of waders.
Waders (say it with me) come in a wide variety of brands, colors, configurations and sizes. I have a good pair of Gortex-based breathable chest waders and another pair of similarly equipped “guide pants.” I even used to keep a pair of traditional hip-boots around, but those disappeared in a garage sale somewhere along the way.
A good pair of chest waders will cover most wader-required situations.
Stick with the breathable fabrics that are reinforced at the knees and have a good-fitting neoprene bootie. And, if you do nothing else, make sure you (guys and gals alike) check the, um… junk clearance. When trying them on, bend, crouch, twist, get on one knee, two knees, lay down, do a few ab crunches, curl up, stand up, take a big step to the left, take a big step to the right, jump up and down and, well, I think you get the picture.
Recommended Waders: Simms G3 Guide Waders (Simms is the best of the best)
11. Wading Boots
Wading boots come along with waders. I admit, when the more modern waders, with the built-in neoprene bootie, came out, I didn’t get it. Now, I’d have to buy both the waders AND the boots instead of having them all-in-one, included as part of my waders?! That confused me and pissed me off at the same time. Then I got it. And since they didn’t really sell the old-fashioned all-in-one kind anymore, I bit the bullet and got myself some good fishing boots to complete my wader-boot set. I’ve never looked back.
The new way presented a better, more comfortable and safe setup. Back then, the best kind you could buy had felt on the soles. That thick layer of felt was both soft to the feet when trudging around on river rock all day, and it was also a lot more slip-resistant. But, because, as I understand it, felt harbored more invasive/destructive specie eggs and/or spores, most manufacturers did away with felt.
Now, boots pretty much feature hiking-style tread. If you want, you can usually buy boots that come with removable spikes, but I’ve never really liked the idea of standing in a river, waving a long rod high in the air when lightening is near, let alone with metal spikes on my feet!
Oh sure, the spikes are removable, but who wants to deal with that when the fish are biting, which, unfortunately enough, often happens when lightening is near.
Recommended Wading Boots: Simms G3 Guide Boots (These boots are freaking awesome!)
12. A Fishing License
I shouldn’t do this, but for the sake of this post, I’m about to tempt fate. Here goes. In all the years I’ve been fly fishing, I’ve never been license-checked by a game warden. Never. The other side of that coin is that I’ve never skipped getting the proper fishing license for the area I am planning to fish. You (and Murphy) can probably finish this next sentence: The first time I don’t get a license is the first time I’ll get checked by a warden, guaranteed. And that is the main reason I always get it done.
Call me crazy, but I’d rather spend a few bucks now than get hit with a huge fine later. Yeah, license money supports the fisheries, the environment, the sport of fishing itself, I get it, but for me it’s about personal responsibility and a hatred of unnecessary expenses. I also love the peace-of-mind that comes from having that piece-of-proof in my vest pocket. You can’t be a good, fly fisher if you’re fretting a license check, no matter how remote a possibility it may be.
Furthermore, I’m convinced that fish can sense even the slightest amount of stress emanating from a fly fisherman. Don’t believe me? Try fishing when you have to pee.
Get your license, every time. Make a habit of it. Don’t be an idiot.
Recommendation: Get A Fly Fishing Guide
Although this is a post about the essential equipment you’ll need to establish your foundation as a fly fishing fanatic, all of the above can be made so easy by simply reserving a guide.
Whenever I speak to someone who may be considering taking up the sport (or teaching it to their significant other or children), I always recommend that they invest in a fly fishing class and bite the cost-bullet to get a guide the first couple of times they venture out.
And, beginners, assuming you want to actually learn the sport, let your guide know that you want to learn as much as they’re willing to teach. Most of the guides I’ve worked with have the inherent desire to teach, which is often one of the characteristics that drew them to being a fly fishing guide in the fist place. Take advantage of their knowledge and skill while all of the above is taken care of and, while you’re at it, increase your odds of success so that you truly become, well… hooked.
You Might Also Like:
Thanks for this article, I’ve never gone fishing before in my life but my husband invited me on a fishing trip with his father and I want to make sure I’m prepared for the trip. Thanks for letting me know about waders, I had no clue what I should even wear for the occasion at first. Though it seems that these would be the ideal clothes to bring so that I won’t have to worry about the heat or getting weighed down by the water. I’ll look for some before we head out on our fishing trip as I’m sure I’d regret not buying some when we get there.